Fall and Winter bring beautiful foliage, powdery ski slopes, and dry shriveled lips. When regular lip balm can’t keep that ‘90’s vamp lip liner from seeping into creases, add some Japanese Peach. A few years ago, Tatcha created a lasting hit in the lip mask market with their Kissu Lip Mask and recently added a limited edition Plum Blossom version. To alleviate dryness, aging and make lips luscious as peaches, their prized ingredient is Japanese Peach Extract. But with a formula change, how well does the newbie stack up to the OG?

Tatcha added a limited edition Kissu Lip mask in Plum Blossom for the Fall of 2022. (Image: AKJAM Publishing)

I used the Original formula for over two years and recently compared it to the Plum version. I had reservations about the effectiveness of the Plum because it does not have Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (PT-1). PT-1 is in the Original and other “plumping” lip treatments like from Rhode and La Mer. Through email, a Tatcha representative stated that the Japanese Peach is their key ingredient. If the peach is the anti-aging, plumping factor, then why add PT-1 to any of their formulations?

The Science

The addition of two plumping factors may be to get maximum plump like an injected Real Housewife or for supportive chemistry in cases where one ingredient is weaker than the other.

Little science is published on the cosmeceutical value of Prunus persica (PP) and, due to proprietary reasons, Tatcha rightly does not divulge on which specific variety of PP they use. Generally, PP helps prevent or reverse aging related to collagen destruction in laboratory experimentally UV-damaged skin. So, the peach extract in both Kissu formulas addresses lip aging (dryness, flatness) by improving collagen chemistry.

Just Peachy

Extracts from PP seeds and fruit add to Kissu’s plumping factor. White (Mochizaki) and red (Akatsuki) peaches depend on antioxidant anthocyanin levels for their pigmentation. Thus, Mochizaki has little to no anthocyanin, while Akatsuki has a lot. A lot of anthocyanin provides several benefits to human skin because it is an antioxidant flavonoid. PP inhibits aging enzymes that cause wrinkles and thus may be a gentler alternative to PT-1.

Plum: The opaqueness turns to a light tint when applied to the lips. The strength of the hue will depend on the natural color of the lips. (Image: AKJAM Publishing)

Fruit Salad

The peach extract works with citrus peel, Citrus unshiu (CU), to provide hydration. CU stimulates hyaluronic acid and fillagrin protein, which increases natural moisturizing abilities of upper layer skin cells. Kissu helps ceramide building, which is a key factor in the integrity of the epidermis. Once collagen breaks down with the inability to repair rapidly, aging markers like wrinkles and dryness become visible. Studies have shown that PP extract can be taken as a tea or applied on skin to alleviate dermal damage.

Just A Tint

A final note on color. Both versions are transparent, providing a lovely transparent glow. The Plum looks opaque in the pot, but not when applied. The color of the Plum is not derived from the fruit but rather color additives like Red 7. Natural pigments in peaches would make a comparable tint for this lip treatment and possibly with more benefits from fruit anthocyanins and similar components.

Testing, Testing

The benefits are cumulative. I tested the Original for about 6 months, resulting in a lasting natural plumping effect. The effects diminished after 3 months of no use. The Plum is currently being tested for overnight and day use. After a 3-day treatment of only Kissu Plum, lips maintain their plumpness mostly when on. Tatcha stated in previous promotions that Kissu sinks in. Neither formula noticeably seeps into the lips with overnight treatment or day use. This test was completed using a range of thin and thick applications over time. Thin application left the lips dry with no change and thick applications left all of the Kissu remaining by morning.

Bottom Line

The Kissu Lip Mask is a lovely product at a reasonable price point. Each pot lasts for a long time and proceeds benefit girls’ education efforts. The Original formula is perfect for overnight repair and the limited edition Plum adds a gentle hue and hydration during the day. The lasting plumping effects of the new Plum Blossom version still needs to be determined. A few months of use will determine if the Japanese peach extract is effective alone or if the plumping molecule PT-1 is needed.