The Karl Lagerfeld Dichotomy: Making Waves With Air And Fire

di·chot·o·my | dīˈkädəmē | noun a division or contrast between two things that are or are represented as being opposed or entirely different. 

You know how some people have that thing that everyone can’t get enough of. Love or loathe? Admit or deny?

I was on my way home from the gym when I ran into a crowd on the corner of Wooster and Spring. Usually nerdicus me would walk past the hoi polloi. Without rationale, I stopped. Soon a trio emerged from a shiny black car with such grace, energy, loftiness. A captivating potency that is not emitted by the usual bozos clumping to the subway.

One white-haired old guy with two wrinkle-free young men. I actually took out my flip phone from my fuchsia Kmart carryall and shyly snapped. Very uncharacteristic of a data-driven PhD candidate. Then it dawned on me that it was the Chanel guy.

Karl Lagerfeld.

Karl Lagerfeld and the Lagerettes at a Chanel store event in Soho 2009. (Image: Internet)

Personal energy is everything. Like the waves of the ocean crashing on eroding rocks until they glisten in the moonlight. Or the sparks of a bonfire that set a glow upon the evening beachgoers. The doshas predict our personalities, relationships, and even our successes. Doshic constitutions can be as dichotomous as art and persona. They are connected to nature, which manifests in physical and mental attributes. Kapha is an earthy, generous and greedy supporter, Vata is an airy, active and intolerant creative, and Pitta is a fiery, adaptive and arrogant pioneer. 

do·sha | ˈdōSHə | noun: (in Ayurvedic medicine) each of three energies believed to circulate in the body and govern physiological activity.

Karl Lagerfeld successfully applied his talent in several areas- fashion, interiors, books and photography. He also accomplished a lot those creative pursuits while remaining the leader of the most influential brands for over 60 years. Talent aside, even detractors can’t ignore how impressive that is due to the time, focus and energy requirements.

But what exactly allowed him to be who he was? To produce at an “Olympic” level and never get fired after expressing questionable statements regarding women’s weight.

The former Fendi artistic director was successful due to his creativity, stamina and leadership abilities. He was a dichotomy due to his warmth and coldness; as a politesse and a vulgarian. His artistry was also dyed in the wool. These tendencies imply that he was a rare tridoshic individual. A person who has equal amounts of all three doshas is uncommon and signifies perfection.

the stairs are the steps the to success, don’t fall down
— Karl Lagerfeld

Creativity

Although Lagerfeld’s memory of all Dior and Balenciaga collections were regulated by Kapha energy, his ability to create his legendary sketches from dreams is a Vata characteristic in which fantasy worlds are like reality. Creativity is the act of forming original ideas, which often involves the imagination. Influence from several works of art and artists are prominent in the late fashion designer’s works. This minimizes the illusion of his innovative capabilities. Coveting an Adolph Menzel replica ignited visions of an 18th century French life. This was evident in Lagerfeld’s work, life and persona. He hoarded and absorbed the best of everything, then applied them to Fendi and Chanel collections, home interiors and artwork. Even his caricature uniform was fashioned after Count Henry Kessler, his white hair from an unnamed scalp expert, and his gloves from his mother’s criticism of ugly hands.

I have no human feelings
— Karl Lagerfeld

Generosity (Stamina)

His extravagance, generosity, loyalty and creativity indicate a strong Kapha dosha and associated longevity. Karl’s Vata-led aversion to routine prevented unchanging Kapha from becoming stale. In nearly every interview he used the term “boring” as to convince the public or himself that he was not a bore as his mother told him when he was 6. Importantly, appreciating history while resisting the past and embracing the future set a foundation for constant renewal. Karl Lagerfeld’s ability to hoard luxuries (including homes), then let them go is also a strong Kapha/Vata indicator. Usually Kapha types are attached, but Vata doshas let go or never get too close- whether to objects or people. Ironically, the abrupt termination of friendships signaled a sense of disloyalty, disapproval, and impatience. Pitta’s strong raging fire unfurled with Vata’s gone-with-the-wind mentality. Being so cold, yet so sympathetic and passionate brought a disjunction to his otherwise consistent character. The trusting relationship with his premiers to convert his sketches into reality within a millimeter of design, reveals a balance to overcontrolling Pitta and distant Vata. Working until the very last day of his life validated his Kapha perseverance and Pitta leadership.

There is nothing worse than looking longingly at clothes that you would like to wear but that are definitely too tight for you.
— Karl Lagerfeld

Fame (Leadership)

Lagerfeld’s signature on everything, the inclusion of one Karl look in every fashion show, and the inability to speak kindly of rivals were signs of Pitta needing fame and feeling jealous. He led through influence, decisiveness and commitment. The fine latticed line between generous Kapha and controlling Pitta can be traced to gifting books he thought someone should read or customizing clothes he thought they should wear. Using the pull of determination from his youth, Karl resolved to lose 90 pounds to fit into the slim designs of Hedi Slimane. Nearly 20 years preceding his death, the former Chanel designer made it known to the world that he dieted and drank Diet Coke to accomplish that goal. At 10 cans/day, he consumed aspartame at levels that may have disrupted his Pitta/Vata-governed pancreas. A more compelling indicator of his dichotomous energy, is that he simultaneously regaled in the company of a few hand-selected personalities (Kapha) and relished loneliness (Vata). This allowed him to provoke the imagination of others by remaining mysterious.

A lot of people have said a lot about Lagerfeld over the years attempting to separate the real him from the public persona. He was confusing. Maybe he was a Regina George- the more he was despised because of the meanness and demands he inflicted, the more those offended wanted to be liked by him? That is art. Except Lagerfeld insisted that fashion was not art and he should remain an illusion.

Lagerfeld’s doctor apparently told him he is from another planet regarding his “superhuman” ability to work on multiple high-profile collections to the level he did. But, for someone hailed as extraordinary, he loved hot dogs and died at the statistically average age of 85. Pancreatic cancer is common and can arise from a severe tridoshic imbalance.

Trying to figure out what made Karl Lagerfeld a “genius” and so productive has limits when only using his words or public persona. There are undeniable elements that make a person whole. Karl capitalized on those that realized a painting to life, with an unfiltered tongue, while constantly creating. He exuded that polarizing energy onto society. Even to me, who thought he was tacky and his work conventional, he caught my attention that night and did not disappoint the likes of Fendi, Chanel and Chloé. Some may insist that his energy was due to wealth and celebrity. Those are side effects his contributions. He was a fire at the same time he was the ocean and wind. Roaring and alight, tumultuous and rippling, gusty and breezy.

The phone was stolen on my subway ride to Brighton Beach. To buy veggies and fruits that were plumper and cheaper than in SoHo. I also can’t forget the energy of the person who covertly stole it.


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